Converting from a Saginaw to a HURST Competition Plus Shifter:

You can get rid of that sloppy Saginaw and install a new Hurst Competition Plus Shifter and still keep the original shifter handle.

1. Get the new shifter and linkages for the 65 442.
2. Remove the Hurst handle from the gate.
3. Replace handle with the adapter (Muncie handle to Hurst shifter)      a)  part #   20004-1)   Available at Chevy2only.com  502-239-8487        or  b)  part #7210H689 from Auto Krafters Inc, Broadway VA.               800-228-7346. (this adapter offsets the shifter to one side)
4. Bolt your 442 shifter to the adapter.  That's it!






442  65 442  1965 442 Cutlass F85 F-85 442 BRO  BRO 442
Restoration Tips
Removing the drip rail:

Why can't we find decent drip rails on parts cars?   It's because for some reason that totaly escapes me, people try to take them off with pliers.  If you really don't care what they are going to look like when you're done, why take them off in the first place?    What good are the pieces on the right?   NONE !

I have found the the best way, or at least what works for me, is to cut a paint stick into 4" pieces and very carefully using a small hammer, starting at the rear and working from inside the car, gently start tapping the lower edge and work ahead 4 to 6 inches and then start at the back again. Be patient not trying to get too much movement too fast. It will begin to release and become easier as you work your way to the front.  When you get to the front curve, go gently because the whole rail will pop off and we sure don't want to drop it and dent it after working so hard not to damage the darn thing.
Tip: 65 Chevelle drip rails are the same as Cutlass.




If you plan on polishing them on a buffing wheel, all I can say is be carefull. (yes I learned this the hard way) I found a really nice set and paid top dollar, only to see one of them spinning around my buffing wheel at 10,000 RPM's. When buffing, only go straight up and down and polish a small area at a time holding as tight as you can. Be careful, at the speed the wheel is turning it's easy to lose a finger or more, if it grabs the piece.   Some things are best left to the pros.   BR[]
FUBAR
2)     When I remove the drip rails, I always use the bottle cap end of an old style can opener. Put a rag between the opener     and the drip rail and pry it off from the bottom.      Roger Green
Engine Painting:

The engines in the 65 442 were painted Bronze only.  The engine was painted after assembly, as complete units, less the brackets, pulleys, fan, power steering pump, air conditioner pump (if equipped), and other accessories, which were installed after the paint was applied.
They were painted assembled, complete with heads, intake manifold, water pump, valve covers, and oil pan in place. The distributor, thermostat by pass hose and manual bell housing were also mounted and received some overspray in the process. BR[]
Best Matches:
Plasti-Kote color  FM8069
Krylon AP-31 (if you can find it)

Freeing A Siezed Engine:

This is one I never heard before.  If you have an engine that is seized and won't turn over.  Buy 2 cans of Coke,  Pull the spark plugs,  then using a transmission funnel, pour 1 can of Coke equally into 4 cylinders on one bank and repeat on the other bank.  ( I'm not sure if you use Diet Coke on small blocks or not) Let the coke remain in the cylinder for at least one day and then using a breaker bar with an extension try turning the engine again.  You may be surprised.   Jack  Muenzer
Dealer Installed Stripe (Very Rare Option):








This is a copy of the dealer installation sheet for a single racing stripe that was applied to the left side of the 65 442.  As you can see, it runs the entire length from front to rear.  Some also had a large 442 sticker on the tail end of the quarter panel. This was used by specific Olds dealers similar to  Chevys Baldwin Motors & Yenko.   BR[]
Dealer Installed Vanity Mirror Location:

This is a copy of the dealer installation sheet.   BR[]
Header Selections That Work On The 65 442:

Most header manufacturers claim that their headers will fit 65 thru 72 or 76  442's.  Very few actually fit the 65 at all. I have found that the Dyno Max 86029 High performance 65 - 76 GM car Ceramic and the BlackJacks fit pretty well. They may need a little tweaking. ( I by no means have tried them all, so if you have any that work, let me know)    BR[]
Rear Filler Panel Selections:

As you can see by my pencil marks, the 442 emblem will cover up the F-85 and Cutlass mounting holes, so you can use any panel on your 442. You simply have to drill 2 new holes. It's best to use an old emblem with holes drilled where the mounting studs attached. Center it over the existing holes.  Use a felt pen to mark through the holes. This way you can be sure the holes will be covered. BR[]
Dash Plate Restoration:

I have some tips for restoring a dash plate.  First strip all the old paint off and inspect
for any pitting.  Sand down the pits if possible, and if it is a chrome 64 piece, sand
down the entire piece to rough it up.  The 64 is identical except for the pad above the
ignition switch. ( 64's  have "on" and "lock" stamped on the pad where 65's don't)  You must fill these with bondo before moving on to the next step. 
Prime the entire piece with a good rattle can primer.  Next use Plasti-kote Wheel Paint #618 "steel wheels" to paint the dash piece.  This paint is the closest I've found to the Argent Silver Metallic that Olds used.  I've tried 4 other paints that were supposed to be close, and this is the closest.  Pep Boys sells this brand of paint.  Don't forget to paint the radio face.
Next tape off the silver so just the black area is showing.  Use Duplicolor Flat Black Enamel # DA1605 to put the flat black back on the dash.     Jasen Ramsey
442 Emblem Restoration:

To restore the 442 badge I've found three paints that match exactly.  All three are Testors Model Master sprays.  The first is called Italian Red # 28109, the next is Hugger Orange # 28108, and the last is Grabber Orange #28105.  Use an exacto-knife to cut around the numbers after laying down a piece of masking tape.  These paints will make your badge look like new.   These are a two part spray system and require a clear coat.  Jasen Ramsey
Speedometer & Gas Gauge Needle Restoration:

Also, to put an exclamation point on your work, paint the speedo needle and the gas gage needle using Testors ModelMasters Florescent Red/Orange #2041.  The speedo lens comes off with 4 screws and you can carefully paint the needles.  Or take off the black cover and do the entire needle.  Now you have a perfectly restored dash face.   Jasen Ramsey
Rear Power Antenna Specs & Location:

This is the correct rear power antenna and mounting hardware for the 1965 442.
The correct casting numbers for the parts are as follows.

1.) The mast (serrated top cap)                 302500-112
2.) The mast bracket (clamp)                       300500-134
3.) The chrome wedge washer                    589645
4.) The chrome threaded spanner nut     579837
5.) The rubber gasket has no number
 
The correct location for the rear power antenna hole is 1 5/16" from the edge of the trunk seal gutter and 12 1/16" from the rear of the fender where it joins the fender tail molding.  The diameter of the hole is 7/8".  There is also a triangular bracket which attaches the mast to the trunk floor.  BR[]
Wedge nut (hollow base) #589645
Top retainer spanner nut #579837
Lower Rear Window Chanel Restoration:

It's been brought to my attention, by Jasen Ramsey, that the lower rear window chanel is available for the 65 Pontiac GTO ( boy that hurts ) and will fit the 65 442. So there's hope for those of you with rusty lower window chanels  BR[]
Vin Number Stampings:

In addition to the Vin plate on the front door post you will find the car's vin number stamped into the drivers side of the frame just forward of the center body mount ( on top, not visible unless the body is removed) and also into the side of the 4 speed transmission casing on some, but not all. BR[]
Front Brake Backing Plates:

It turns out that the front backing plates were "cadnium plated" the same as the brake booster. Here is an excellent example.  Note the yellow paint dob on picture 3. Jasen Ramsey
Tailpipe Number Stampings:

I dug out the original tailpipes from my  65 442 Holiday Coupe and (to my surprise) found part numbers stamped at top dead center near the stainless tip. The right side is 390178 and the left side is 390179.  BR[]
Rear End Housing Info & Interchange Data:

From 1964 thru 1967, GM A-body rearend dimensions measure 56.5 inches, from flange to flange.  With the drums in place it measures 60.5 inches. The dimensions are similar to the 1967 thru 1969 Camaro, Firebird, and  also 1968 Thru 1974 X-cars and clones, except they used leaf springs. 1968 thru 1972 rearend housings are 58.5 inches from flange to flange, and 62.5 inches with the brake drums in place. These are similar to the 1970 thru 1981 Camaro, Firebird, and 1975 thru 1979 X-cars and clones, except they used leaf springs.



The Oldsmobile 12-bolt has a 12 bolt cover and a 10 bolt gear, which measures 8.3".

Axle shafts are common to the housing used, and due to the usual characteristics like overall length and spline count, the shafts only interchange with the housing that is used. (12 bolt shafts fit other 12-bolts, and 10 bolt shafts fit other 10-bolts.)

Rear spring mounting pads differed, in which 1964 thru 1966 rearends used a flat pad with a hole drilled in the center. 1968 thru 1972 rearends have circular spring mounting pads, which are 3/4" higher that the early flat pad.

1967 was a transition year, in which "A" cars might have a 1964 thru 1966 style rearend, a 1968 thru 1972 rearend (which is wider and commonly available), or a "hybrid" rearend, which will have the 58.5" width, but with the early spring mounting pad and trailing arm brackets.

Rear upper control bushing eyes differ, and the positioning of the bushing eyes will differ. 1968 hru 1972 rearend housings will have a 3/8" forward positioning, which is farther that 1964 thru 1967 rearends.

1964 was the only year that the rearend bushings are small, and any upper trailing arm (from any GM division) will fit 1964 rearend housings.  BR[]
Silver Paint For Grill-Dash-Console:

Grill  Surround - Dash - Console SILVER  
(The original Olds Color was Argent Silver Metallic)

1.) Plasti-Kote Steel Wheel is a nice match.
2.) Premium Rustoleum Metalic 7271 (Silver Metalic) (a little shiney).  BR[]

AUTOMATIC T HANDLES::

I've done a great deal of research on these handles, and I have seen many come and go.  I know they run from 64 thru 66, but I believe that were installed in 67's as well. Here is some advice.
First of all, these things break like a twig.  Many folks have them and bought their car with a broken shifter and have never seen one that was NOT broken.  Many folks think the "T" part is what broke, and that's why they have just a stick with a small roller on top to push down on to release the detent.   Not correct.  The "ears" on the stick is what broke so the "T" has nothing to connect to.
A good stick has ears that stick up and have holes drilled into each side so that a roll pin can be pushed in through the "T" handle into the stick to hold the "T" on the stick.  These parts are made out of very cheap pot
metal and break all the time.  You can find them on sale on eBay here and there, but be careful if you bid on one that shows the "T" in place.  You need to ask the question, and be aware of some things;
"Is the "T" loose, or does it have any play" - If it is loose, it could mean that one of the ears on the stick is broken, and the "T" is only being held on by one or none f the ears.  The "T" should not move and be tight on the stick.
Some sellers will be selling a complete shifter with the "T" off and the ears broken and will say; "Needs Work" - Yea, it needs to be fixed, it needs a good stick. Stay away from these.  Most likely it is just like the one you already have.
Some sellers will swear that it is in "perfect working condition", just missing the "T" handle.  Wrong!  The mounting ears are gone and the "T" handle is long since been thrown away.  Yes, you can push down on the roller and the shifter will move, but it will not take a "T" handle.
When you do find a good, complete shifter for sale, most likely the seller knows what he or she has and it will be pricey.  I've seen good shifters go for over $300 routinely.  I saw one go for $575 once with some heavy bidding. They are usually complete shifters with neutral safety switches and the floor boot, but still, that's high. 

If you have a broken stick and "T" handle, I'm not sure they can be repaired, even if you have all the parts.  Several years ago, something like 15, I tried a few local places to get my broken ears welded back on one of my sticks.  No one could or would do the repair.  I did find one machine shop that would make me a new stick out of steel and then would have to be sent out to be chromed.  The cost was prohibitive so I did not pursue that method.  However, I was told by to repair/restoration shops that I checked with that this would be the way to go if there was no aftermarket part available, which there isn't.  I do know of a couple of guys that very diligently worked the part and used JB Weld on their stick, but they had all the broken parts. You might try that. A good many folks don't have the broken parts.  I have one car with all the broken parts, and I have one car without the "T", just a broken stick.  I never had these parts, bought it broken with the car in 1978.      Mike Stilwell
Z Bar Weld On Frame Mount Position:

To find the correct location of the Z Bar frame mount, lay a straight edge flat on the side of the frame and against the rear side of the lower control arm mount and draw or scribe a line. Then measure over 1 19/32" and draw a parallel line. This will give you the the left side location. Measure down from the top of the frame on that line 1 1/2" and draw a line from the top of the round punched hole thru your 1 1/2"  mark. This will give you your bottom location. (The bottom mark is NOT at a 90 degree angle to the verticle side mark.  BR[]
Correct Trunk Paint Color:

I am always being asked the question..... "Were the trunks painted the same color as the body or were they painted with the aqua and black splatter paint?"  Although I personally perfere the splatter paint, the body color was the correct paint for all 442's.  The aqua & black herringbone rubber mats that were used over the regular body color cause sweating and eventually a rusty trunk, and that's why I'll stay with the splatter paint. The pictures below show the sweating and what just one year under a rubber mat can do.  The can on the right is the GM product that I use. BR[]
Sooner or Later
You'll Find Yourself Here.

.I hope the following  tips will help you thru your project. If you have a good tip you'de like to share, let me know.    

I'm not gettin' much help here..... Get off your butt or out from under your car and send me a tip or two.
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First let me say, I have nothing against any of the suppliers listed below. They all supply us with great parts for our 442's. I simply don't think any of their colors are correct for the 65 thru 69 442 400 engine.  The Bill Hirsch paint color looks the closest until I sprayed it on my L-69 manifold.  It just aint right.  The Supercars Unlimited is not even in the ballpark and the Fusick is too much to the red copper side. The colors that appear on this web page match perfectly with my test samples.  Any help you can offer will is always appreciated. BR[]