metal and break all the time. You can find them on sale on eBay here and there, but be careful if you bid on one that shows the "T" in place. You need to ask the question, and be aware of some things;
"Is the "T" loose, or does it have any play" - If it is loose, it could mean that one of the ears on the stick is broken, and the "T" is only being held on by one or neither of the ears. The "T" should not move and be tight on the stick.
Some sellers will be selling a complete shifter with the "T" off and the ears broken and will say; "Needs Work" - Yea, it needs to be fixed, it needs a good stick. Stay away from these. Most likely it is just like the one you already have.
Some sellers will swear that it is in "perfect working condition", just missing the "T" handle. Wrong! The mounting ears are gone and the "T" handle is long since been thrown away. Yes, you can push down on the roller and the shifter will move, but it will not take a "T" handle.
When you do find a good, complete shifter for sale, most likely the seller knows what he or she has and it will be pricey. I've seen good shifters go for over $300 routinely. I saw one go for $575 once with some heavy bidding. They are usually complete shifters with neutral safety switches and the floor boot, but still, that's high.
If you have a broken stick and "T" handle, I'm not sure they can be repaired, even if you have all the parts. Several years ago, something like 15, I tried a few local places to get my broken ears welded back on one of my sticks. No one could or would do the repair. I did find one machine shop that would make me a new stick out of steel and then would have to be sent out to be chromed. The cost was prohibitive so I did not pursue that method. However, I was told by to repair / restoration shops that I checked with that this would be the way to go if there was no aftermarket part available, which there isn't. I do know of a couple of guys that very diligently worked the part and used JB Weld on their stick, but they had all the broken parts. You might try that. A good many folks don't have the broken parts. I have one car with all the broken parts, and I have one car without the "T", just a broken stick. I never had these parts, bought it broken with the car in 1978. Mike Stilwell
Having a 3-speed manual 442 now, I've researched them quite a bit.
The Heavy Duty 3-speed M-14 manual (a Ford toploader) was first introduced in Feb '65 making it a late in the year introduction (see picture). This is also the first Hurst shifter to go into the 442s, and carry the full "Hurst" name. The 4-speed shifters you correctly identify are Muncie (and quite crappy) shifters. (Everyone that had one in the 60's bought a Hurst Competition Plus and replaced them. I fabricated an adapter so I could use the original shift handle on the Hurst. BRO)
The Lansing body code for the hole in the floor for the 4-speed is L, of course, but the code for the 3-speed manual is "B".
The Jet-A-Way was the Oldsmobile name for the GM Super Turbine 300. They are completely different from the Powerglide. The Jet-A-Way was the only automatic available for the 65 & 66 4-4-2's. A "Special Duty" Jet-A-Way was used in the 4-4-2. It featured additional forward and reverse clutches, a recalibrated valve body for a more positive (harder) shift and other performance improvements. NOTE: Some very early 65,s use a TH400 style metal tag with Jet-A-Way codes.
The code is either stamped on a metal tag or on the lower servo cover. It identifies the year, model, date built and plant shift.
Transmission code is stamped on the right side of the case ahead of the extention. The code indicates the transmission type, the month and day produced and on which shift it was produced. (Not found on all transmissions)
Transmission Type = P (Muncie)
Month = 06 June
Day = 21 21st day
N = Night Shift
AUTOMATIC T HANDLES::
I've done a great deal of research on these handles, and I have seen many come and go. I know they run from 64 thru 66, but I believe that they were installed in 67's as well. Here is some advice.
First of all, these things break like a twig. Many owners bought their car with a broken shifter and have never seen one that was NOT broken. Most people think the "T" part is what broke, and that's why they have just a stick with a small roller on top to push down on to release the detent. Not correct. The "ears" on the stick are what have broken so the "T" simply has nothing to connect to.
A good stick has ears that stick up and have holes drilled into each side so that a roll pin can be pushed in through the "T" handle into the stick to hold the "T" on the stick. These parts are made out of very cheap pot
Converting from a Saginaw to a HURST Competition Plus Shifter:
You can get rid of that sloppy Saginaw and install a new Hurst Competition Plus Shifter and still keep the original shifter handle.
1. Get the new shifter and linkages for the 65 442.
2. Remove the Hurst handle from the gate.
3. Replace handle with the adapter (Muncie handle to Hurst shifter)
a) part # 20004-1) Available at Chevy2only.com 502-239-8487or b) part #7210H689 from Auto Krafters Inc, Broadway VA. 800-228-7346. (this adapter offsets the shifter to one side)
4. Bolt your 442 shifter to the adapter. That's it!
65 Muncie Shifters: At best, not so hot. I have the same shifter in my Jetstar 1. There are 2 rubber gromets that go on the studs where the handle attaches to the shifter. I found a Chevy supplier in Calif that has them. I replaced them on my JS1 and I was almost amazed at how much that improved things. So to anyone keeping the Muncie shifters, I'd say replacing those gromets is a must! Kurt Shubert
Identifying GM 10-bolt Rearends:
From 1964-67, GM A-body rearend housing dimensions measure 56.5 inches, from flange to flange. Total measurements with the drums in place is 60.5 inches. The dimensions are similar to the 1967-69 Camaro / Firebird, and 1968-74 X-cars and clones, except leaf springs were used. 1968-72 rearend housings measure 58.5 inches from flange to flange, and with the brake drums in place, the total dimensions measure 62.5 inches. The dimensions are similar to the 1970-81 Camaro / Firebird, and 1975-79 X-cars and clones, except leaf springs were used.
The Oldsmobile 12-bolt has a 12 bolt cover and a 10 bolt gear, which measures 8.3".
Axle shafts are common to the housing used, and due to the usual characteristics like overall length and spline count, the shafts only interchange with the housing that is used. (e.g. 12 bolt shafts fit other 12-bolts, and 10 bolt shafts fit other 10-bolts.)
Rear spring mounting pads differed, in which 1964-66 rearends used a flat pad with a hole drilled in the center. 1968-72 rearends have circular spring mounting pads, which are 3/4" higher that the early flat pad.
1967 was a transition year, in which A-cars might have a 1964-66 style rearend, a 1968-72 rearend (which is wider and commonly available), or a "hybrid" rearend, which will have the 58.5" width, but with the early spring mounting pad and trailing arm brackets.
Rear upper control bushing eyes differ, and the positioning of the bushing eyes will differ. 1968-72 rearend housings will have a 3/8" forward positioning, which is farther that 1964-67 rearends.
1964 was the only year that the rearend bushing are small, and any upper trailing arm ( from any GM division ) will fit 1964 rearend housings.
39:14
40:13
42:13
39:11
39:10
Ring & Pinion Tooth Count
41:10
39:9
Transmission Vin Number Stampings:
There is a VIN number stamped on the edge of some (not all)
4 speed transmissions which matches the number on the VIN plate located on the drivers side door post between the hinges. BR[]
Pilot Bushing Removal:
Here's a tip that will make the removal of the pilot bushing a simple process. All you have to do is take a tap ( usually a 5/8 ) and tap it through the bushing until it makes contact with the drive shaft. Simply keep turning the tap and it will push the bushing out with very little effort. ( If the bushing is badly worn, use a larger tap )
This sure beats the heck out of the "pack it with grease and drive a dowel in the center method". BR[]
65 442 Shifter Variations:
After stacking several shifter handles together, I noticed, for the first time, that there are differences in the bucket seat versions, with the arc and the length. The shifter on the left has a steeper arc and is about 2" longer than the other, BR[]
