1. Remove the switch assembly from the vehicle, since you need to have the switch flat to take it apart safely. Carefully staighten out the tabs slightly  ( they are easily broken ).
2. Pull the clip off and the switch cover comes off in two pieces-inner & outer.
5. Reassemble, install clip, tap tabs back into place very carefully they are brittle,
If you have a good tip, share it with all of us. It will be appreciated.
4. The little brass triangles have very small springs under them-be careful not to lose them.
3. Clean all brass areas with stiff brush, polish brass areas with 600 grit paper till shiny.
6. Polish electrical spades with 600 grit paper, reinstall and hook up electrical connections.
7. Testing: the lower electrical spade is marked "bat" and is hot when key is on, the electrical spade on top (white wire) will show current as you open throttle and the side spade (black wire) will show current at full throttle. The metal clip on top may be for "clocking" of the trottle.  I don't know for sure because there is only a slight adjustment available. Make sure all linkage moves freely-lubricate as needed. Check for WOT and idle.

PS. You should be able to hear the solenoids clicking in the tranny as you open the throttle (engine off) which means the current is getting to them. All this assumes that you have the correct tranny and torque converter.  If either are not correct it won't work. After I got mine all figured out it made a hell of alot of difference, breaks the tires loose at a small hit of the throttle and mine is pure stock.   Gary


A: Stator switch inoperative or mis-adjusted

B: Pump
1 stator valve train stuck
2 Lead wires not connected at outside/inside terminal, grounded out, pinched
3 Feed circuit to stator restricted, blocked. Check feed line in stator shaft
4 Converter outer check valve(reed valve) missing or broken
5 solenoid inoperative

C: Turbine shaft

Oil seal ring worn, damaged, missing.
Shaft ring lands damaged

D: Case

Stator orifice plug missing or blocked
Converter defective